tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-66138267976954137682024-02-18T18:59:40.190-08:00La Route du SESAMEDe Tatihou à Tahiti, Jean-Luc et Nicole s'embarquent sur SESAMEAnonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.comBlogger15125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-55852100937594290842016-07-26T09:44:00.001-07:002016-08-05T01:40:03.708-07:00Açores - Normandie, juillet 2016, bilan du voyage<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Une
dernière soirée aux Açores pour accueillir Christian, visiter le Rara Avis, de
l’association du Père Jaouen, et rencontrer son équipage et saluer Gérard
rencontré aux Canaries, puis en Martinique.</span></div>
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Nous avons quitté Ponta del Gada le 4 juillet 2016. Une fois
n’est pas coutume, nous avons eu de la chance avec la météo : en
infléchissant légèrement la route, nous avons navigué tout le temps au portant,
avec un vent modéré. Pas souvent de soleil, mais une navigation confortable et
rapide ; nous avons mis 9 jours de Sao Miguel à Saint-Vaast la Hougue et
nous avons ancré à Tatihou le 13 juillet.</div>
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<b> Un périple de 13 mois de
navigation mérite bien un bilan. </b><br />
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Pour ceux que cela intéresse, le
voici.<br />
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Tout d’abord, il y a une grande
différence entre une navigation à la voile et un voyage à la voile. En
navigation, on barre le bateau, on règle les voiles, on optimise le cap et les
réglages, on cherche le meilleur bord et, en principe, on ne lésine pas sur les
manœuvres ! Puis on rentre au port et on prend un repos bien mérité, au
bistrot ou dans son lit. Et, parfois, si le temps est mauvais, on repousse la
sortie à un autre jour.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
En voyage, la priorité est de
s’économiser, car le risque est la fatigue, qui fait reporter les décisions ou
rend les gestes moins sûrs. Tout d’abord, sauf en solitaire où ce n’est pas
possible, il faut veiller toutes les 10 à 15 minutes, jour et nuit, par un tour
d’horizon. Il y a donc toujours quelqu’un de quart. A 2 équipiers, cela
représente pour chacun 12 H de quart par jour ; au minimum, car il faut
ajouter les manœuvres faites à 2. Il est important pour la sécurité d’être
toujours en capacité de manœuvrer, de jour comme de nuit. L’objectif de base
est donc de gérer son sommeil. Moins le bateau a besoin de nous et plus la vie
est douce ! Quand c’est dur, on retrouve avec bonheur sa couchette
confortable, à l’heure où l’autre la libère. En fait, à 2, en navigation au
long cours, on se voit peu ! Quant à la météo, on met toutes les chances
de son côté en choisissant la date de départ et la route à suivre, mais, quand
on est loin de tout, on assume, quelques soient les circonstances et les
difficultés. Si par hasard on a marre du vent trop fort, des vagues mauvaises,
du bateau qui cogne et qui mouille, ou au contraire, du calme et du bateau qui
n’avance pas, pas de solution de repli, on fait avec… et l’on travaille dans
tous les cas à la qualité de la vie, car on est là pour ça ! <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
En fait, chaque bateau a son
charme et sa personnalité, ses qualités et ses défauts, mais tous ouvrent la
porte du rêve d’évasion et offrent l’immense liberté du marin sur la vaste mer…
avec la responsabilité qui l’accompagne. <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
En voyage, il y a la magie de la
contemplation. Il y a le beau temps, le soleil, le paysage de la mer, toujours
recommencé ; il y a la nuit, la lune et ses quartiers, il y a le ciel et
les nuages, les couleurs et les éclairages, qui changent selon la météo et la
latitude ; il y a les étoiles, qui
tournent autour de la polaire au fur et à mesure de l’avancée de la nuit, la
voie lactée… Il y a les oiseaux, les animaux marins, qui sont curieux et ont
moins peur des humains qu’à terre. Et le bateau qui joue avec les éléments et
se débrouille pour tailler sa route, et sans polluer la planète, tout
simplement comme on le fait depuis des siècles…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
En fait, loin de tout, on se
retrouve face à soi même. Moments d’isolement, de silence ; durée du temps
qui passe, sans limite proche, sans intervention extérieure. Belle expérience.
Méditation, réflexion, lecture si le temps le permet ; gestion du stress,
aussi, et rencontre avec sa fragilité, sur tous les plans, car il faut être
autonome matériellement et aussi psychiquement. Certes il faut être bricoleur
car il y a toujours quelque chose à entretenir ou réparer, mais, au-delà du
matériel, le voyage en mer façonne l’âme du voyageur…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Une expérience, aussi, d’être à
2, 24 H sur 24. Nous n’avions jamais passé autant de temps ensemble ! Et
c’est une belle expérience de se connaître sur le bout du doigt, de se
compléter, de s’aider et de s’aimer, après plus de 4 dizaines d’années !
S’il est vrai que l’amour est la construction de l’unité dans la différence, la
durée implique d’apprendre à gérer la différence dans le respect mutuel. De ce
point de vue c’est une expérience particulièrement adaptée aux problèmes du
monde d’aujourd’hui !<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Des questions existentielles,
aussi : est-ce égoïste de partir vivre sur son bateau ? N’y a-t-il
pas mieux à faire pour le monde et pour les autres ? Il n’y a jamais de
réponse univoque à ce type de question. Outre que j’ai – Jean-Luc - beaucoup
essayé de changer le monde, avec souvent un succès modeste, j’ai longtemps eu
envie d’écrire sur ce que je crois avoir compris des humains, et je m’étais
figuré que je pouvais caser quelques heures d’écriture entre 2 réunions,
politiques ou autres. Mais ce n’est pas possible ! Pour écrire, il me faut
plusieurs jours de calme et de concentration, pour maîtriser la réflexion et la
formuler. Alors là, dans un mouillage de rêve, interrompu seulement par le
moment de baignade, j’ai travaillé les 2 derniers chapitres de mon bouquin. En
rentrant, restera à trouver un éditeur. Est-ce pour moi ? Est-ce pour les
autres ? J’ai l’impression que c’est ce que je peux donner aujourd’hui. Celui
qui prend a l’impression qu’il donne, dit Léo Ferré… Débrouille toi avec ça… si
tu peux !<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Sur le plan technique, notre
voyage confirme qu’il faut être bricoleur et le plus autonome possible. Nous
avons eu bien des réparations à effectuer et nous avons dû changer notre
programme, mais nous sommes loin d’être les seuls ! Beaucoup ont eu des
ennuis techniques et mécaniques et il souvent bien difficile de trouver les
pièces pour réparer.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Sur le plan météo et navigation,
nous avons bénéficié des moyens modernes, et nous sommes vraiment dans une ère
nouvelle, qui permet de traverser les océans avec moins de danger et plus de
confort. Nous avons pris des GRIB en WIFI, gratuitement, avant de partir :
ils donnent des vecteurs de vent à 16 jours. Certes, il faut s’attendre à des
adaptations au fur et à mesure que l’échéance s’allonge, mais les prévisions
sont assez fiables à court terme et donnent de bonnes indications pour la
suite. En mer, pour compléter, nous avons pris des GRIB par Inmarsat C, plus
restreints parce que le coût de transmission est élevé. Mais cela nous a
permis, entre la Martinique et les Açores, de contourner l’anticyclone par
l’ouest et le nord, puis de nous protéger de 3 dépressions, dont une très
creuse, en redescendant vers le Sud-Est, avant de remonter au Nord vers Sao
Miguel. Nous avons sérieusement rallongé la route, mais nous avons évité
d’abord les calmes et, ensuite, la tempête. Nous avons mis 22 jours, uniquement
à la voile. D’autres sont allés tout droit et ont mis 19 jours depuis la
Martinique, mais avec 3 à 5 jours de moteur. Les moyens météo et de
communication moderne ne servent pas seulement à essayer de gagner les courses,
mais aussi, plus sagement, à traverser à la voile en limitant autant que
possible les difficultés et les risques.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Les moments magiques, comme cette
fin d’après-midi avec une baleine ou au mouillage, dans la magnifique Baie du
Trésor, dans les Tobago Cays ou à l’îlot Petit Tabac, à se baigner pour
contempler le corail et les poissons multicolores, comme, auparavant, les rhododendrons
géants du paradis de Glengariff, en Irlande, les mouillages du Golfe du
Morbihan au coucher du soleil, ou encore les volcans de Lanzarote…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et les escales... Pour découvrir,
il faut qu’elles soient longues. Nous avons passé plusieurs mois en Martinique.
Voir le pays, sentir l’ambiance, rencontrer les gens et s’apprivoiser pour
connaître. Nous avons eu la chance d’être accueillis magnifiquement par les
amis martiniquais de Dominique et devenir à notre tour leurs amis. Nous avons
vécu de bien belles rencontres avec Marie-Madeleine et Livia, Marco et Guetty,
et leurs amis. Aussi avec Hervé et Christine, des caennais rencontrés par
hasard, puis Jean-François, nomade des mers plein d’expériences et de vie…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Nous avons senti le poids de
l’histoire de l’esclavage qui pèse encore lourdement et est sans doute à la
source de nombreux troubles psychiques dans la société martiniquaise. Les
hommes étaient séparés des femmes, les familles ont été décomposées, et beaucoup
d’enfants des générations passées n’ont pas eu accès à leurs origines réelles…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et la pesanteur et la
bureaucratie ; un paquet bloqué 2 mois à la douane, alors qu’il n’y avait
même pas de taxe à payer. La plupart des martiniquais sont fatalistes devant ce
qui dysfonctionne. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Mais aussi la gentillesse des
vieux, et des jeunes qui veulent construire une nouvelle société martiniquaise,
et qui le font avec talent, et avec leur sourire…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et les histoires de vie des
marins voyageurs rencontrés. Quand le courant passe, on va à l’essentiel, car
on se découvre et on se quitte aussi vite. Celui qui a fait un héritage d’un
million d’Euros il y a 40 ans, a acheté
une ferme au Canada dans une région de production de maïs. Il a bûché dur avec
ses fils, mais les cours du maïs se sont effondrés. Il a perdu 100 000
Euros par an pendant 10 ans. Puis il a tout quitté et sans le sou, il a
construit son bateau. Et cela fait 25 ans qu’il navigue, entre les Canaries et
les Antilles. Pour nous qui avons été élevés dans l’idéologie du travail et de
la production, quelle est sa plus belle vie ?<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et la magnifique semaine que nous
avons passée avec Patrick, canadien-français, vieille amitié familiale ; moment
longtemps attendu après des rencontres furtives
depuis 5 ou 6 dizaines d’années ! Echanges et fraternité, sur la
magnifique côte au vent de la Martinique.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Etonnantes, aussi, les nombreuses rencontres d’amis, anciens ou
nouveaux, et voisins du Calvados : Fabrice, Nathalie, Yves, Léna, et leurs
amis, puis Christine et Hervé, et, aux Açores Henri, Geneviève et leurs amis
bretons Brice et Régine, puis retrouvailles très amicales avec Patrice Quesnel,
capitaine de l’Alcyone du Commansant Cousteau, et son équipe, Catherine,
Jacques et Jean.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et voilà un an de passé. Il nous reste à remercier.<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci à ceux qui nous ont
encouragé à partir, en particulier Gildas, Emilien, Claire, Carole, Danièle, Philippe,
Christian, Annick, Jean-Pierre, Annie,
Pascale, Laurent, Léa, David, Jean-Pierre, Françoise, Yves, Léna, Fabrice,
Natalie, Colette, Marc, Dominique, Georges, Daniel, Jean-Louis, Christine, Patrick,
Martine, Pierre-François…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci à ceux qui nous ont aidés
techniquement sur un plan ou sur un autre, en particulier Christian, Laurent,
Patrice, Danièle, Patrick, Dominique, Fabrice, Natalie, Jean-François, Philippe,
Patrick, Patrice… <br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci à ceux qui nous ont
accueillis en Irlande et en Martinique, en particulier Marie-Madeleine,
Dominique, Livia, Marco, Guetty, et leurs amis, ou encore Lucie à Carriacou…</div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci à ceux qui sont venus
partager un moment ou une tranche de navigation sur le bateau, Dominique,
Christian, Danièle, Gildas, Claire, Colette, Marc, Marie-Madeleine, Livia,
Patrick, Hervé, Christine, Ian, Claude, Annie…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci aux navigateurs rencontrés,
avec qui nous avons passé de beaux moments aux escales, en particulier Andy,
Diego, Magdalena, Adriana, Aurora, Fabrice, Nathalie, Yves, Léna, Jean-François,
Philippe, Henri, Geneviève, Brice, Régine
, Stroyan, Patrice, Catherine, Jacques, Jean, Patrick, Pierre, Florian…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Merci à ceux qui nous ont
encouragés à poursuivre régulièrement le Blog, en particulier Laurent, Patrice,
Geneviève, Marie et les anonymes…<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Et merci aux vagabonds de la mer
rencontrés sur le chemin et qui nous ont empli le cœur. Andy, Diego, Magdalena,
Adriana, Aurora, Jean-François, Philippe, Stroyan... si vous lisez ces lignes,
sachez que nous vous aimons !<br />
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Amis de la mer et du voyage,
continuons à regarder au loin !<br />
<br />
<br />
<br /></div>
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Jean-Luc<br />
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et Nicole<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-13018796035253170442016-07-03T15:31:00.000-07:002016-07-26T08:28:44.087-07:00Martinique - Açores mai-juin 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBapFLoYuYySRARwjqtc9MDxaMIJYq71YrqDafLDtaaKaku8S5FJjC-gXlpcc2jld88czyZ-cBoFTKm2JNzFTKYVR3iq9x3DEUJkBAWoAkGThxssNEqibpmH92hr50xRlR8-s_YlQaso/s1600/AC+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikBapFLoYuYySRARwjqtc9MDxaMIJYq71YrqDafLDtaaKaku8S5FJjC-gXlpcc2jld88czyZ-cBoFTKm2JNzFTKYVR3iq9x3DEUJkBAWoAkGThxssNEqibpmH92hr50xRlR8-s_YlQaso/s400/AC+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nous sommes finalement partis de Martinique le samedi 14 mai
2016. La navigation n’a pas été particulièrement facile : une semaine
d’alizés soutenus, une semaine de vent faible, puis une semaine avec des
dépressions d’ouest, qui passaient plus bas qu’habituellement. Nous avons mis
22 jours, uniquement à la voile. D’autres ont mis 19 jours, avec un bateau plus
grand et 5 jours de moteur.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiSi79MNeltyBoOE_B9og0_jvJ_b7U3Toln-3EO1URgpi0NjD_1j5PM-MhDdJqgk9aFNzqWa48GzMYeHykKtCsHOuhFkpR0H9bIJX8WLfY5kuO9M5pitw05dx5LNJzzZv0gtk2vdAEZEI/s1600/AC+5.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiSi79MNeltyBoOE_B9og0_jvJ_b7U3Toln-3EO1URgpi0NjD_1j5PM-MhDdJqgk9aFNzqWa48GzMYeHykKtCsHOuhFkpR0H9bIJX8WLfY5kuO9M5pitw05dx5LNJzzZv0gtk2vdAEZEI/s400/AC+5.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous
sommes d’abord montés au Nord, pour contourner les anticyclones par l’ouest et
avoir du vent portant...</span></div>
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Nous avons pleinement bénéficié de notre équipement météo,
pour naviguer sans trop de difficulté, car les dépressions qui partent du golfe
du Saint-Laurent et montent habituellement vers le Nord-Est, sont descendues
vers le Sud-Est jusqu’aux Açores. Il y a eu 3 dépressions, dont une très
creuse, avec des vents de 55 à 60 Nœuds annoncés. Nous sommes donc redescendus
vers le sud, en gagnant vers l’Est, afin de nous protéger et d’avoir des
conditions qui restent maniables. </div>
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Nous avons donc bien rallongé la route, mais nous sommes arrivés sans encombre, après quand même quelques grains, dont un à 45 nœuds, qui ont eu raison de notre pavillon tricolore.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Compte
tenu des dépressions très basses, nous sommes allés à l’île de Sao Miguel, dans
le groupe du Sud. Là, nous avons d’abord pris le temps de nous reposer et de
bricoler. Nous y avons rencontrés de nouveaux et de vieux amis, dont plusieurs
de notre région : Geneviève et Henri, de Deauville, venus sur leur RM
12,70 avec leurs amis Brice et Régine de Concarneau ; Stroyan, le
hongrois, encore un vagabond des mers, solitaire.</span><br />
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Des retrouvailles très amicales avec </div>
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Patrice, le
capitaine de l’Alcyone du Commandant Cousteau, côtoyé épisodiquement depuis les
années 70, sa femme Catherine et ses amis Jacques et Jean.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous
avons passé une semaine de mouillage en mouillage, à tenter d’épuiser la
bibliothèque emportée. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Le
cratère du volcan de Vila Franca di Campo crée une petite île, avec un lagon
ouvert, qui forme une piscine naturelle</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">ou
encore Ribeira Quente, un petit port et un village du bout du monde,
tranquille, paisible et sympathique.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous
avons accueilli également Claude, Danièle et Annie, pour une soirée sur le
bateau, et de grandes ballades dans l’île. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Les
lacs vert et bleu de Sete Citades, </span><br />
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la
petite anse rocheuse de Punta Ferraia, avec ses sources chaudes dans la mer,<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">les
fumerolles sulfureuses de Furnas, la piscine chaude et ferrugineuse du Parc de
Terra Nostra,</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">les
plantations de thé, les seules d’Europe, </span><br />
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l’exposition
de peinture de Domingo Rébèlo, qui est allé vivre quelques années parmi ses
pairs à Monmartre, puis est revenu vivre sur son île pour la peindre,<br />
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et, bien sûr, les églises, qui foisonnent dans le pays.<br />
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Enfin, notre vieux compagnon de mer, Christian, nous a
rejoint pour l’étape qui nous ramène en France</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-66974603566051300932016-05-12T10:20:00.001-07:002016-05-12T10:20:29.698-07:00Carriacou, avril - mai 2016<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Ayant renoncé à passer le canal de Panama, nous nous offrons
un mois de flâne dans les îles Grenadines et encore en Martinique, avant de
mettre le cap sur les Açores, la saison des cyclones commençant à la fin du
mois de mai.</div>
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Une petite escale sur la côte sous le vent de l’île de Sainte
Lucie</div>
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Marigo Bay ; le site est très beau, mais tout y est
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Les deux Pitons. Deux majestueux pains de sucre volcaniques.
A leur pied le vent souffle en violentes rafales.</div>
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Nous nous laissons séduire par la petite île de Carriacou,
située 20 miles au Nord de Grenade et 130 miles au sud de la Martinique.</div>
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Beaucoup moins élevée que Saint Lucie ou la Martinique, elle
reçoit peu de pluies. L’eau y est rare, et à la fin de la saison sèche, les
chèvres et les moutons peinent à trouver de quoi manger.</div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Les 7000 habitants sont quasiment tous descendants des
Africains déportés là par des Français au 18ème siècle. L’île est devenue ensuite
anglaise ; elle fait partie de l’état de Grenade, indépendant depuis 42
ans, et les couleurs nationales fleurissent partout. Le tourisme est peu développé. Les relations avec les
habitants sont sympathiques et détendues.</span></div>
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On y construit de superbes bateaux en bois ; les plans
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Nous avons arpenté les collines<br />
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Les chemins côtiers</div>
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Nous avons participé aux fêtes locales<br />
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Visité Oisters Bay, un immense abri naturel dans la mangrove,
parfait « trou à cyclone », autant qu’il est possible… </div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Sur les
racines des palétuviers s’accrochent des huitres.</span></div>
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Les plages de sables blancs et les bancs de coraux,<br />
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ici
Sandy Island. Parfaits pour la baignade avec masque et palmes.</div>
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Les poissons sont très nombreux et de toutes les couleurs
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Nous avons profité de notre séjour pour sortir le bateau de
l’eau et le caréner au chantier de Carriacou. Les algues poussent très vite
dans l’eau à 27° des tropiques. Les prix sont bien inférieurs à ceux de
Martinique.</div>
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A Carriacou nous étions à 12°30 minutes de latitude
nord : le point le plus au sud de notre périple atlantique !</div>
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Remontant vers la Martinique, nous avons fait escale à Petit
Tabac, un minuscule îlot de sable blanc et de corail à l’est des Tobago Cays,
dans l’état de Saint Vincent : un petit paradis digne des lagons du Pacifique !</div>
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De retour en Martinique le 6 mai, nous prenons d’abord
quelques jours pour sillonner l’île en voiture,</div>
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nous abreuver de paysages superbes, de forêt tropicale, de
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La Martinique est un
paradis…</div>
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Pourtant aujourd’hui un tiers des terres, les rivières et
l’eau de mer sont polluées par la
chlordécone. On en retrouve dans les légumes, les œufs, les poissons et même le
rhum. Cet insecticide a été largement répandu dans les bananeraies jusque dans
les années 90, alors qu’il était déjà interdit aux USA depuis une quinzaine
d’années. C’est un perturbateur endocrinien pouvant induire des cancers, des
troubles de la fécondité, l’obésité, le diabète… </div>
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De grandes zones sont interdites à la pêche. Un gigantesque travail d’information et de sensibilisation
est en cours, encore timide. L’agriculture biologique se
développe… un peu.<br />
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Nous avons fait de grandes ballades à pieds, parfois guidés
par Jean-François. Il bourlingue dans les Caraïbes depuis de nombreuses années
sur le voilier qu’il a construit. Nous nous sommes rencontrés à Carriacou, et
retrouvés ensuite en Martinique.</div>
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Dans les sous-bois, nous rencontrons une foule de crabes de
terre dits « matoutous », ainsi que de gros bernard-l’hermites, qui
apprécient la chair des noix de coco.</div>
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Restent les derniers préparatifs,
quelques courses et démarches, la surveillance rapprochée des bulletins météo…</div>
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Nous serons parés pour reprendre la mer le 13 ou le 14 mai.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-25816156371927840112016-04-12T16:31:00.000-07:002016-04-12T16:31:03.003-07:00MARTINIQUE, mouillages<div class="MsoNormal">
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Le moteur est réparé, mais n’a pas retrouvé sa puissance
normale. C'est pourquoi notre programme est changé : nous ne voulons pas
prendre le risque d'avoir des problèmes de moteur dans le canal de Panama. Nous
avons donc renoncé à passer le canal... cette année !</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous
allons rentrer en métropole cet été. Bien sûr, je suis un peu déçu, mais, en
revanche, nous avons une grande bonne nouvelle : nous allons être grands
parents, au mois d'août, chez Emilien et Carole. Cela nous console un peu de
renoncer au Pacifique.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Nous allons traverser vers les Açores en mai, puis repartir vers la France en
juillet.</span></span></div>
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Nous profitons du mouillage. Nous avons été
impressionnés ce matin en découvrant que nous étions à l'ancre depuis 10 jours
au même endroit. Changement de rythme de vie ! C'est pas mal dans ce sens là !
Nous essayons de nous souvenir ce que c'est que d'avoir un week-end de 3 jours
avant de reprendre... </div>
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Nous avons visité de nombreux mouillages de rêve, bien
protégés : à l’ouest, Le Marin, Ste Anne, Anse Caritan, Anse Figuiers,
Anses d’Arlets, Anse de l’Ane dans la Baie de Fort de France ; à l’est,
Petite Martinique, Ilet Madame, Ilet Lavigne, Ilets Oscar et Thierry, Trou
Monnerot, Baie du Trésor…</div>
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Au programme, lecture</div>
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Ordinateur et écriture</div>
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Les voisins peuvent être bruyants…</div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Ou
célèbres ! ici, le Bel Espoir de feu le Père Jaouen, qui fait naviguer les
enfants des écoles</span></div>
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Excursions, copains, vieilles et nouvelles amitiés.<br />
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Nous avons eu la visite de Patrick et nous sommes allés
ensemble sur la côte est de la Martinique.<br />
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Le Canal entre Martinique et Sainte Lucie nous a bien secoués...<br />
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et mouillés !</div>
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Du côté Est de la Martinique, il n’y a quasiment pas de bateaux de plaisance,
car la navigation est plus difficile, entre les bancs de corail. Pourtant,
quand on connait la Bretagne Nord…, et de plus avec un GPS…<br />
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , "sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%;">Côte
magnifique, nombreux mouillages parfaits dans la baie du Robert, </span><br />
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A la Pointe Hyacinthe, où notre ami Marco a monté un petit
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Dans la baie du François. Un petit canal permet de remonter
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A l’ilet Oscar, protégés par une 2<sup>ème</sup> barrière de
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Un vieux rêve, depuis que j’ai des cartes marines : la
Baie du Trésor, au sein de la mangrove, dans la forêt protégée de la Presqu’île
de la Caravelle<br />
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Il faut la gagner… en slalomant entre les bancs de corail à
fleur d’eau : en vert, notre route.</div>
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Mais le résultat est à hauteur du rêve…</div>
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Excursion en voiture vers le nord, emmenés par notre amie
Marie-Madeleine et sa fille Livia<br />
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Saint Pierre, ancienne capitale de la Martinique, détruite
par l’éruption de la Montagne Pelée, en 1902. Ce n’est pas si loin !</div>
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Une partie est toujours en ruines<br />
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Par chance, nous avons peu voir le sommet du volcan de la
Montagne Pelée, pour une fois sorti des nuages.<br />
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Patrick nous a raconté que
PapaMau, son grand père, qui importait du rhum au Havre dans les années 1900,
avait été chargé d’une mission d’inspection en Martinique… mais il est tombé
malade et s’est fait remplacer par un collègue. C’était en 1902, et ce collègue
est mort dans l’éruption du volcan, avec une bonne partie de la population de
Saint-Pierre ! PapaMau, lui, a vécu jusqu’à 99 ans.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqRULprOnJJrF_QSaEOh5t-y7lfj4SdctqKSdkllisWB-ejt7zqlKS25uxepMY_JqUhSYCrpt7691A03ziTnPGAZ7lPJIqjO6UkWarOZVRYUtRV0xXPsbsqGELIBHXUfM3m1D9Zm_EYIA/s1600/MM+51.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqRULprOnJJrF_QSaEOh5t-y7lfj4SdctqKSdkllisWB-ejt7zqlKS25uxepMY_JqUhSYCrpt7691A03ziTnPGAZ7lPJIqjO6UkWarOZVRYUtRV0xXPsbsqGELIBHXUfM3m1D9Zm_EYIA/s400/MM+51.jpg" width="287" /></a></div>
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Nous avons été accueillis chaleureusement au Morne Rouge,
face à la Montagne Pelée, par Guetty<br />
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<br />
et Marco<br />
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Marco
est né dans cette maison, qu’il habite toujours</span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PMRkwZlQJ37R7eYMZXrYVjKa-ZmTeDJT0AEg_-2q7Sji9AjcIHspkDAUnSGLMJkBChF69EINZoV3x4tiTz3MSv9xxEsta1D-kJGjGL-IQ4PHJusArNkwRhgGojwz9bb4Vf-pBK75KGY/s1600/MM+54.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7PMRkwZlQJ37R7eYMZXrYVjKa-ZmTeDJT0AEg_-2q7Sji9AjcIHspkDAUnSGLMJkBChF69EINZoV3x4tiTz3MSv9xxEsta1D-kJGjGL-IQ4PHJusArNkwRhgGojwz9bb4Vf-pBK75KGY/s400/MM+54.jpg" width="400" /></a><span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span><br />
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Au nord, dans les montagnes, les martiniquais peuvent avoir
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Sur la côte, nous n’avons pas eu froid, mais nous avons eu
souvent du mauvais temps, avec vent fort, 30 nœuds, parfois plus, et pluie
intense. Pourtant, en principe, de février à mai, c’est la saison sèche, avec
un vent doux. Les martiniquais disent que le climat est détraqué.</div>
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Heureusement il pleut, car les nuages sont en feu !<br />
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Nous avons contourné le rocher du diamant, qui était occupé
par les anglais, du temps où ils guerroyaient avec les français pour le contrôle de l’île… Les anglais avaient réussi à monter des batteries de canons au sommet du rocher du diamant !<br />
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En allant vers Fort de France, les anses d’Arlets
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Certes, il peut y avoir un peu de houle, mais là opère
encore le charme du trimaran : il
n’a pas de roulis au mouillage !</div>
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De nouveaux copains caennais : Christine et Hervé,
rencontrés pour la première fois dans un sous-bois boueux et glissant, un jour de vrai déluge entre les 2
Anses d’Arlets !</div>
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Ils sont venus faire une ballade dans la baie de Fort de France</div>
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Nouvelle excursion dans les terres vers l’Habitation
Clément, rhumerie en partie reconvertie en parc, et qui met en valeur des
artistes carribéens. Cadre magnifique, qui a accueilli un sommet entre François
Miterrand et Georges Bush.</div>
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Champ de canne à sucre<br />
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Ancien moulin pour presser la canne qui était entraîné par
des boeufs</div>
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Nombreuses essences d’arbres plus ou moins rares</div>
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Palmier bleu<br />
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Arbre à Pain</div>
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Hommage au Petit Prince : Baobab<br />
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Au total, malgré quelques ennuis, nous ne sommes pas à
plaindre !</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-28428310621538738562016-02-25T06:14:00.001-08:002016-02-25T06:14:59.750-08:00MARTINIQUE, Janvier - Février 2016<div class="MsoNormal">
Le paradoxe de notre nouvelle vie : à vivre lentement,
le temps passe de plus en plus vite. Il faut nous secouer pour un nouveau
chapitre du blog !</div>
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La Martinique et les Antilles, encore un bien beau
pays !</div>
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Une bananeraie</div>
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Il reste un peu de canne à sucre pour distiller le rhum</div>
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L’arbre des voyageurs</div>
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Pousser dans les alizés …</div>
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Mais tout n’est pas que confort : </div>
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Les grains sont conséquents !</div>
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Et il faut se méfier d’un arbre très courant, y compris sur
les plages, le mancellinier, dont la toxicité peut être mortelle. La sève, les
feuilles et les fruits qui ressemblent à de petites pommes, sont vraiment
dangereux. Ne pas s’abriter sous l’arbre en cas de pluie ! Les indiens
caraïbes les utilisaient pour empoisonner leurs flêches.</div>
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Nous avons eu la grande chance d’être accueillis par
Marie-Madeleine, l’amie de notre amie Dominique et par sa fille Livia</div>
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Leur maison</div>
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La vue du balcon, vers le Havre du Robert et la presqu’île
de la Caravelle</div>
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Elles nous ont fait découvrir beaucoup plus que les lieux
touristiques classiques.</div>
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La plage de l’anse Cosmy, sur la côte Est, Atlantique, quasiment
inconnue des touristes</div>
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L’anse Figuier, sur la côte ouest, Caraïbe, est plus
touristique, mais pas mal non
plus ! Et les fonds y sont très poissonneux.</div>
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Marie –Madeleine, Livia et Dominique sont venues passer un
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Nous avons été invités à l’anniversaire de Marie-Madeleine
et avons pu rencontrer et échanger avec ses amis martiniquais, sur le présent
et le passé.</div>
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Livia est particulièrement douée pour la danse</div>
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La société
martiniquaise est encore très marquée par la couleur de peau, par le colonialisme et l’esclavage. L’esclavage,
rétabli par Napoléon, a été aboli définitivement seulement au milieu du 19<sup>ème</sup>
siècle. Il est à noter que les blancs ont été indemnisés pour la perte de leurs
esclaves, mais que les noirs ont été libérés sans aucune réparation, et sans la
propriété des terres …</div>
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En Martinique, pour favoriser l’égalité
sociale, les collégiens et lycéens sont en uniformes… et ne semblent pas en
souffrir !</div>
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Nous sommes allés à Fort de France.<br />
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Nous avons eu la chance d’être là à l’époque du carnaval. Il a lieu bien sûr à Fort de France, mais aussi dans chaque ville, et nous avons pu constater combien l’ensemble de la population martiniquaise se sent concernée. Beaucoup se déhanchent facilement ! </div>
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Ballade à pied au Piton Crève-Coeur, d'où l'on domine la côte sud.<br />
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Ici, la Baie des Anglais.</div>
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Superbe vue sur le Cul de Sac du Marin. On y aperçoit notre
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Ballade à pied à la pointe du Vauquelin, sur la côte Est,
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<span style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%;">Retrouvailles
avec nos amis calvadosiens qui avaient loué un grand catamaran pour une
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Nous les avons retrouvés pour une journée aux Tobago Cays
et partager la langouste grillée…</div>
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Les Grenadines méritent vraiment leur réputation
paradisiaque.Les Tobago Cays sont un immense mouillage protégé par une
barrière de corail en « fer à cheval ». Abrité, le mouillage
accueille les bateaux de passage et les charters, sans pour autant gêner les
tortues qui ont élu domicile sur l’île de Barradal.</div>
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Les Kits surfs sont alimentés par les alizés</div>
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Bequia</div>
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Canouan <br />
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Le bureau local d’Air France !<br />
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Les Grenadines se répartissent en 3 états indépendants, qui
nécessitent chacun une clearence d’entrée et une de sortie. La douane et
l’Immigration sont des bureaux importants. Il vaut mieux avoir les bons tampons
sur son passeport !</div>
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En Martinique, les choses se passent parfois de façon moins
bureaucratique, et la clearence se fait
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On peut la faire à Ste Anne.</div>
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En accord avec cette nature magnifique, nous utilisons un
moteur d’annexe électrique, rechargé par un panneau solaire, et, quand le soleil
brille à la bonne heure et que nous avons le courage, nous sortons le four
solaire pour cuire le repas !</div>
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Au moment de l’annonce du référendum anglais, nous avons pu
photographier un pavillon sympathique, et bien rare, qui aura peut-être bientôt une valeur
historique !<br />
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Quelques ombres au tableau idyllique tout de même. Le moteur
a pris l’eau dans la grande houle de l’Atlantique. Après être reparti, la pompe
à injection a cassé. 1 mois pour faire venir des pièces de métropole, 1 mois et
demi pour certaines… Et puis une
mauvaise infection à la jambe qui a obligé Jean-Luc à consommer des antibiotiques
à forte dose, au milieu du paradis de la nature…</div>
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Mais du temps pour lire, contempler, méditer… et ce n’est
pas la nomination du nouveau gouvernement qui va nous faire regretter d’être loin !</div>
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Bien sûr, nous avons vu beaucoup de beaux bateaux, de tous
les genres et toutes les tailles…</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Mais
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courses de yoles sont très populaires ici. Le bateau est très simple. Le
gouvernail est un aviron. Il est surtoilé, non lesté, et c’est l’équipage,
nombreux, qui assure l’équilibre.</span></div>
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Cela peut rater… mais ça marche fort le plus souvent !</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-14997681134349269542016-01-12T14:25:00.000-08:002016-01-12T14:25:02.280-08:00Transatlantique, décembre 2015<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_bGMWzgyKVkxJ6wootNfGsYD-aJeRUWr4U7Oyj1AyG-FjebFDd9gi_vmyJoMPBg6Q5wx2CLdLG-_Gxtu92ptBHdXIwuK5t3CEbAGziSj1VQlFog5zbmZt1-FRzorBmuJlOUM88XtxZwY/s1600/G+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="206" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_bGMWzgyKVkxJ6wootNfGsYD-aJeRUWr4U7Oyj1AyG-FjebFDd9gi_vmyJoMPBg6Q5wx2CLdLG-_Gxtu92ptBHdXIwuK5t3CEbAGziSj1VQlFog5zbmZt1-FRzorBmuJlOUM88XtxZwY/s400/G+1.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nous quittons Arecife le 10 décembre, le cœur plein des
souvenirs de la belle soirée de la veille.</div>
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Nous passons au nord de Fuerteventura et de Gran Canaria que
nous devinons dans la brume, passons au sud de Tenerife, pour arriver à la
Gomera, une des îles de l’ouest de l’archipel des Canaries. Il fait beau, l’alizé est doux,
mais entre les îles, le vent est irrégulier.</div>
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La Gomera est une petite île montagneuse, au relief
tourmenté, peu fréquentée : elle n’a pas d’aéroport international.</div>
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Du fait de son altitude importante, les sommets captent
l’humidité de l’air. Une forêt de grands arbres à feuilles persistantes, de la
famille des lauriers, couvre le centre de l’île. C’est une forêt survivante de
l’ère tertiaire, un trésor écologique.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Prenant
un des bus qui sillonnent l’île, nous en avons traversé une partie, pour aller
voir la spectaculaire vallée du Grand Roi . </span></div>
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L’eau y coule, les palmiers, les bananiers et les jardins
prospèrent. C’est à la Gomera que s’arrêtait Christophe Colomb lors de ses
trois voyages pour l’Amérique : il y faisait le plein d’eau et de vivres.</div>
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Avis aux amateurs de randonnée : il faut aller à la
Gomera !</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6cU0o2-hVqW_bTFnOPPX8oABxnIbtZO4LVOPh0g0IkE7-B6tYG1kLN2mX5j7qWD9BeuK_lMBMQ-MVrOZVzh9EEHq0zqgFGq-gz3OIC8jINhPllKkanoSLJHgyFN4sQ9ZdO-OGWWQmxMQ/s1600/T16.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh6cU0o2-hVqW_bTFnOPPX8oABxnIbtZO4LVOPh0g0IkE7-B6tYG1kLN2mX5j7qWD9BeuK_lMBMQ-MVrOZVzh9EEHq0zqgFGq-gz3OIC8jINhPllKkanoSLJHgyFN4sQ9ZdO-OGWWQmxMQ/s400/T16.jpg" width="400" /></a>Le 16 décembre nous reprenons la mer : 2730 milles
nautiques à parcourir pour rejoindre en Martinique le port du Marin où nous
avons rendez-vous avec Dominique et ses amis.</div>
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Nous prenons une route vers le sud pour trouver des vents
favorables. Nous avons d’abord du grand beau temps d’alizé, l’air est chaud,
les nuits sont douces, le bateau file à 8 ou 9 nœuds au vent arrière.</div>
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Le 22 décembre nous voyons les premiers poissons volants.
Nous laissons le sondeur allumé, pas pour les fonds, nous avons 4000 mètres
d’eau sous la coque, mais pour avertir les baleines de notre passage.</div>
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Puis l’alizé forcit, force 6 à7. Nous sommes toujours au
vent arrière, le bateau est content, mais nous sommes blaqueboulés par une
houle croisée. C’est inconfortable, et çà éclabousse bien dans le cockpit !</div>
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Nous essuyons ensuite quelques grains, comme les tropiques
savent les faire, avec des rafales de 35 nœuds, parfois 49.<br />
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Pour Noël, le temps se calme, et nous retrouvons l’alizé
comme on l’aime, avec la lune qui </div>
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maintenant est pleine : les nuits sont
merveilleusement belles.</div>
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Au menu de Noël : poisson volant et légumes au curry.</div>
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Nous sommes heureux d’être là, mais ceux que nous aimons
nous manquent un brin !</div>
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Nous avons fait la moitié du chemin, et la deuxième partie
du voyage sera plus douce.</div>
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Nous vivons au rythme des quarts : 4 heures chacun, à
tour de rôle. A chaque fois l’un de nous 2 va se coucher avec un plaisir non
dissimulé ! De temps en temps , nous changeons d’heure, pour arriver en
phase à la Martinique dont l’heure est TU moins 4. La notion de temps devient
très relative, l’espace lui est bien présent : la terre est grande,
grande, et la mer donc !</div>
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Douceur de l’air</div>
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Ciel magnifique</div>
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L’alizé pousse en douceur</div>
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La houle l’accompagne</div>
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Des nuées de poissons volants brillent dans le soleil</div>
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C’est pour cela que nous sommes venus !</div>
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Arc en ciel dans le soleil, arc en ciel au clair de lune, </div>
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Coucher de soleil, lever de lune, dauphins…</div>
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La beauté nous subjugue…</div>
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Et puis, le 31 décembre, une rencontre étonnante et forte :
un rorqual croise notre route et nous accompagne pendant 1 heure ou 2. Comme le
font les dauphins habituellement, il passe et repasse, d’un côté, puis de
l’autre, puis dessous. Curieux de notre coque et de ce qu’il voit au dessus de
l’eau, il sort la tête, ou se tourne sur le côté en nous doublant, nous montrant
son ventre blanc. Il se laisse dépasser pour mieux nous rattraper. La houle
faisait près de 4 mètres, et nous le voyions derrière nous, tout en haut de la
vague, au dessus de nous, juste sous la surface de l’eau, brillant dans le
soleil. Ballet magique !</div>
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Les premières minutes, une certaine inquiétude nous a
traversés, étant donné le poids
respectable de notre visiteur qui était aussi long que le bateau… mais il était
juste animé d’une bienveillante et ludique curiosité.</div>
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Le lendemain, premier janvier 2016, de nombreux oiseaux, des
fous bruns, tournoyaient autour du bateau et plongeaient pour pêcher les
poissons volants.</div>
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Puis nous avons croisé un pêcheur dans sa petite
barque : nous n’avions quasiment croisé aucun bateau depuis le départ.</div>
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Et puis nous avons aperçu la terre ! A 16 heures nous
étions ancrés devant la plage de Sainte Anne, heureux et fourbus. Nous avons
mis 16 jours pour traverser. 7 nœuds de moyenne, en ménageant plutôt le bateau,
et sans génois car nous avons cassé la drisse au milieu du voyage. </div>
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Le mouillage
est une transition douce entre la mer et la terre. Nous prenons le temps de
savourer, de nous reposer et d’atterrir.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-14869692517698889832015-12-09T17:14:00.000-08:002015-12-09T17:14:58.106-08:00Lanzarote novembre 2015<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59oXhJq2cLbYyMWoWLMifcajMI6K0yGaYEXJSEzD1enYb1BuwFOg4Vzht6fFuCc89Wv7idk_vt7Wxz6qdgQ_c1rSN1SbeiWdeSvvb4nCoHCfbk8ynLcHU51DZIbLtL6RrfmUv6GuzmkM/s1600/can+1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg59oXhJq2cLbYyMWoWLMifcajMI6K0yGaYEXJSEzD1enYb1BuwFOg4Vzht6fFuCc89Wv7idk_vt7Wxz6qdgQ_c1rSN1SbeiWdeSvvb4nCoHCfbk8ynLcHU51DZIbLtL6RrfmUv6GuzmkM/s640/can+1.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Nous sommes repartis du Portugal vers les Canaries par un
temps moyen, avec des calmes et des grains ( jusqu’à 39 nœuds de vent, pendant
peu de temps ) . A partir de la latitude de Casablanca, la météo s’adoucit
nettement et réserve moins souvent des
surprises.</div>
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Nous sommes arrivés en vue de Lanzarote au petit matin, avec un bien
bel éclairage.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNlx4d69ZtJux_q3ZLChxl9_iUtMFTNWF_LYuIKZF9BqKxNx66t4pPXXqVHfF0CGnITM6okvowGOLxqmOS63P6IdzPZCBl9efF-NKHcsoR4d6oyomVwlCMOivzwsxMV5m6J0Egxccw5I/s1600/can+4.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCNlx4d69ZtJux_q3ZLChxl9_iUtMFTNWF_LYuIKZF9BqKxNx66t4pPXXqVHfF0CGnITM6okvowGOLxqmOS63P6IdzPZCBl9efF-NKHcsoR4d6oyomVwlCMOivzwsxMV5m6J0Egxccw5I/s640/can+4.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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Les falaises noires au Nord-ouest de Lanzarote</div>
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Face à Lanzarote, qui est l’île Canarie la plus au nord, se
trouve une petite île encore plus sauvage, Graciosa. Pour nous, c’est un peu la
« Serk » des Canaries : peu d’habitants, pas de voitures, et de
superbes paysages. Le béton n’a pas fleuri comme sur Gran Canaria et Tenerife.</div>
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Graciosa a aussi le meilleur mouillage de toutes les
Canaries, à Playa Francesa.</div>
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Le soleil se couche ici aussi tous les jours, mais, à cette époque, environ 2 heures plus tard
qu’en France. Non, ce n'est pas le volcan qui s'est réveillé !</div>
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Lanzarote et Graciosa
sont vraiment des îles à visiter, mais elles sont aussi les plus sèches
des Canaries.<span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> <span style="line-height: 115%;">Le</span><span style="line-height: 115%;">
paysage</span></span><span style="line-height: 115%;"><span style="font-family: Times, Times New Roman, serif;"> de Graciosa est animé par ses petits volcans, éteints et des grandes
étendues minérales. On y entend fort peu de moteurs ou autres bruits de la
« civilisation » et, dans ce contexte, il est difficile d’être
stressé. Le port de Graciosa, Caleta del Sebo, est une petite ville
couleur locale typique, avec ses petites maisons blanches, ses rues en terre et
ses palmiers</span></span></div>
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Il y a aussi quelques petits jardins où quelques plantes
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Seule une « Hamburgereria » diffuse du wifi sur la
place et nous avons pu écouter Emilien jouer en direct sur France Inter. Soirée
un peu surréaliste sous ce palmier, d’autant plus que c’était match de foot et que le café
était plein de supporters devant la télé et, bien sûr, quand on s’éloigne, le Wifi ne fonctionne plus.</div>
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Nos mouillages ont été interrompus par la mort du guindeau,
qui permet de remonter l’ancre. Une vis du support de moteur s’est desserrée –
je ne sais pourquoi, je suppose qu’on avait dû la serrer mal, aurait dit
Brassens - et le support a cassé. C’est un modèle qui ne se fait plus et il a fallu
commander un guindeau neuf à Arrecife, la capitale de Lanzarote. De même le
pilote électrique acheté en septembre est tombé en panne car il a pris l’eau,
alors qu’il est sensé être étanche. </div>
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En attendant commande et réparation, nous
sommes rentrés en France 10 jours pour voir nos enfants et nos parents. Nous
avons également pris le temps de gruter le bateau pour le nettoyer et remettre
une couche de peinture antifouling.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifC1PmOYCwxYNooC-KsGg5lwqwKaGtJ8c7V6vPQwWfuWaam5Yoyf8WLTllR2IP5lh7S4H_cy7RSnnkUQt50cJMBhxDAx6zh6-76ljirwwjY6RUsAZ2Q_yf6erYN2umu38Cl_aouYydi8/s1600/can+18.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="218" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgifC1PmOYCwxYNooC-KsGg5lwqwKaGtJ8c7V6vPQwWfuWaam5Yoyf8WLTllR2IP5lh7S4H_cy7RSnnkUQt50cJMBhxDAx6zh6-76ljirwwjY6RUsAZ2Q_yf6erYN2umu38Cl_aouYydi8/s400/can+18.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Arrecife est une ville sympa et animée, où ne trône qu’un
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Nous avons pu également louer une voiture pour nous rendre
au volcan de Timanfaya,qui a été en éruption pendant 6 ans de 1730 à 1736, et
dont les coulées ont touché un quart de la surface de l’île de Lanzarote. Comme
il ne pleut quasiment pas, il n’y a pas d’érosion et les paysages sont
grandioses et souvent lunaires. Seulement depuis peu, un début de présence
végétale se manifeste et gagne très lentement du terrain.</div>
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Il y a des cheminées naturelles. Quand on jette une gerbe,
elle s’enflamme spontanément, et l’on fait la cuisine à la chaleur du volcan. <span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 11pt; line-height: 115%; text-align: center;">En
hommage au Petit Prince, Nicole a ramoné son volcan</span></div>
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Ici le cratère d’El Golfo </span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;">s’est effondré au bord de la mer, créant un
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Une activité toute indiquée sur cette île est les marais
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Puis
nous sommes allés voir l’ancienne capitale, Teguise, où des batiments datent du
15 ème siècle et où émane un charme particulier. </span></div>
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Ce charme a sans doute été renforcé par un groupe de
musiciens qui jouaient au café de la place. Ambiance chaude et conviviale, le
gamin assurait les percussions. Des femmes et des couples se mettaient à
danser, tout le monde avait le sourire.</div>
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Un des musiciens joue d’un instrument typique des Canaries,
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Puis nous sommes allés visiter la maison de César Manrique,
artiste peintre et sculpteur mort il y a quelques années, et qui a marqué
l’histoire de l’île. D’une part, on croise ses œuvres un peu partout, par
exemple au centre des ronds-points, mais, de plus, il a été conseiller
politique du gouvernement de l’île, et a obtenu qu’elle ne soit pas défigurée
par le béton et le macadam. Jusqu’à présent, le tourisme a été développé avec
mesure et dans le respect de l’environnement. Toutefois, nous qui avons visité
Lanzarote il y a 15 ans, avons l’impression que depuis sa mort, les bétonneurs
sont lâchés…</div>
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Lanzarote mérite néanmoins largement la visite.</div>
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On y trouve quelques puits<br />
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Quelques champs</div>
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Et nous avons aussi eu l’occasion de faire une excursion en
sous-marin, et d’admirer moulte poissons.</div>
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Notre belle escale se termine par une belle soirée avec Diego, Magdalena, Adriana, Aurora, Jean-Baptiste, Dimitri et son ami, mélangeant l'Espagne, la France, l'Italie, l'Allemagne, le Chili, sans oublier le Japon... </div>
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Mais la musique est internationale !</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-69027056743213174882015-11-12T14:51:00.001-08:002015-11-12T14:58:37.892-08:00Portugal, octobre 2015<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyEt1uLLIwZcE2Ay_YwDrlocHWXeGLFCSMVHF_snLpU4t7JbA_jNAvM76oqtcBiPnQ9msEy9fLLy1PMW3GLV47rG3Ci_SZA0ashk4CoZ0HGUpLXI-aD_PD3n-dv0Gb3XxPuDWFRxet9xg/s1600/P+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyEt1uLLIwZcE2Ay_YwDrlocHWXeGLFCSMVHF_snLpU4t7JbA_jNAvM76oqtcBiPnQ9msEy9fLLy1PMW3GLV47rG3Ci_SZA0ashk4CoZ0HGUpLXI-aD_PD3n-dv0Gb3XxPuDWFRxet9xg/s400/P+2.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nous quittons la Galice le 30 septembre et mettons le cap
sur Lisbonne. Vent variable faible, nous allons successivement à toutes les
allures, du près serré au vent arrière…</div>
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Les nuits sont
magiques: étoiles, clair de lune, dauphins qu’on distingue à peine, mais dont
on entend le souffle…</div>
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Malheureusement, les photos de nuit ne sont pas à notre
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Nous entrons le 3 octobre dans l’embouchure du Tage ;
très large, elle s’enfonce loin dans les terres et en amont de Lisbonne
s’élargit en une vaste mer intérieure, la mer de Paille. </div>
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Il parait qu’elle est une « Mer de Paille » quand on voit le soleil miroiter sur les vaguelettes depuis les nombreux « miradouros » de Lisbonne. Mais nous n’avons pas eu la chance de le voir !</div>
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C’est là, devant Seixal que nous allons mouiller d’abord
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq24YFazqmPD9auI8clX2IVrNvqrOatUCZQ7kq6z2kGvLj8_0XO-DYanagKLsBPQOn3UKhe45NdeP1KI0QeE5RsS7PEX2xkwSbNwQdtdn_NLm5S2dZyo6pUmaE9rEH4WpmQ0dd-BJhe50/s1600/P+7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq24YFazqmPD9auI8clX2IVrNvqrOatUCZQ7kq6z2kGvLj8_0XO-DYanagKLsBPQOn3UKhe45NdeP1KI0QeE5RsS7PEX2xkwSbNwQdtdn_NLm5S2dZyo6pUmaE9rEH4WpmQ0dd-BJhe50/s320/P+7.jpg" width="320" /></a><span style="text-align: justify;">On y accède en suivant un long chenal tortueux, mais fort bien balisé, emprunté par les petits ferries rapides qui relient les deux rives du Tage.</span></div>
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Bien abrités de toutes parts, nous laissons passer des vents de 30 à 45 nœuds, avec beaucoup de pluie… on coucoune dans le bateau tout en écoutant les cloches du village tout proche.</div>
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Nous trouvons une place dans une des marinas de Lisbonne,
celle d’Alcantara, la plus proche du centre de la vieille ville.</div>
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Nous passons une première journée à découvrir la ville et
son incroyable réseau de bus et de tramways, plus nombreux que les voitures.
Lisbonne est un exemple pour le développement des transports en commun, mais il
n’y a pas de plan du réseau disponible, c’est comme çà ! on apprend vite
heureusement.</div>
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Danièle vient nous rejoindre pour trois jours, et ensemble, malgré la pluie revenue, nous crapahutons dans la ville et ses sept collines,
de bus en tramway, de funiculaire en métro.</div>
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Les parties basses de la ville ont été anéanties par le
tremblement de terre de 1755, qui fit des milliers de victimes. La
reconstruction s’est faite avec de larges rues bien perpendiculaires, de
nombreuses places très amples et agréables,</div>
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des monuments somptueux : le Portugal était très riche à cette période.<br />
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Le tout pavé de
blanc, avec en contraste des motifs dessinés avec des pavés noir. C’est très
joli, mais glissant ! Au bout de quelques jours ces pavés noir et blanc
sont devenus une telle évidence qu’on n’imagine pas fouler autre chose, bien
que les vagues sur la place Dom Pedro IV donnent légèrement le mal de mer …</div>
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Les constructions des collines alentour et un certain nombre de monuments anciens ont résisté au tremblement de terre. Le vieux quartier de l’Alfama a conservé le plan des rues et ruelles et impasses du moyen âge. Il est néanmoins sillonné à vive allure par le tramway n° 28 !</div>
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Le château Sao Jorge</div>
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La cathédrale Sao Miguel</div>
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A l’opposé vers l’ouest de la ville, le monastère dos
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj55wScZYn8YHfaJJd6fGtLFvDZlR5s0P2S6g1ex09qwdNxnNRpcZ_RfIisbik7e3VYFpu5pecdLLM-T-DWw7O1-F3rIg2CDXnSjDc2ZARomxMGhrIG-1lGhE1CoRsdWgxBj48yD3dxc/s1600/P+30.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBj55wScZYn8YHfaJJd6fGtLFvDZlR5s0P2S6g1ex09qwdNxnNRpcZ_RfIisbik7e3VYFpu5pecdLLM-T-DWw7O1-F3rIg2CDXnSjDc2ZARomxMGhrIG-1lGhE1CoRsdWgxBj48yD3dxc/s400/P+30.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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La tour de Belem, édifiée en 1515. Elle contrôlait l’entrée
du port, à l’époque où le Portugal était la plus grande puissance maritime … et
financière.</div>
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Dans un autre style, le monument des Découvertes, édifié en
1960 sous Salazar, pour le 5OO° anniversaire de la mort de Henri le Navigateur.</div>
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Les opposants de la période Salazar ont surnommé ce monument : "Poussez pas derrière!"</div>
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Henri le
Navigateur a été un des hommes les plus célèbres du Portugal. Il était fils du roi, donc Prince, et n’a en fait jamais régné. Il
n’a pas non plus beaucoup navigué. Mais il a invité systématiquement tous les
hommes qui connaissaient la mer et revenaient d’expéditions maritimes. Ce
faisant, il a acquis un savoir exceptionnel pour l’époque sur les océans, les
îles et les passages, et il a certainement été à l’origine des grandes
découvertes qui ont permis au Portugal de dominer le monde des siècles suivants
par la maîtrise des routes maritimes. Il est né en 1394 et est mort en 1460, 32
ans avant le voyage de Christophe Colomb, lui qui a eu l’audace de partir vers
l’Ouest, et a cru rejoindre les Indes quand il a découvert les Antilles. Il
faut dire que le monde connu des Européens s’arrêtait vers l’Ouest à la
longitude des îles Canaries, l’océan Atlantique, on ne savait pas où il menait…<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LC_5rQ0urdGHW_hFlwf49kTmpdGyNhX6wemEwM1kM3GmN0_Z43qi-MbcohqohwTsZbOUMQ0lF_cVqcatZTL_iTmJ47lxGou2W0g5g7MdqIn43shQmMOh2204re4khuNvdK_6EH1Vovc/s1600/P+33.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="449" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2LC_5rQ0urdGHW_hFlwf49kTmpdGyNhX6wemEwM1kM3GmN0_Z43qi-MbcohqohwTsZbOUMQ0lF_cVqcatZTL_iTmJ47lxGou2W0g5g7MdqIn43shQmMOh2204re4khuNvdK_6EH1Vovc/s640/P+33.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;">Cette carte, malgré la mauvaise qualité de la photo, montre,
après le début de l’océan Atlantique, une grande plage noire !</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="text-align: justify;">Henri le Navigateur a lancé diverses expéditions maritimes
et il a contribué, après sa mort, à l’ouverture de la voie maritime par le sud
de l’Afrique, vers les Indes, par Vasco de Gama en 1498, à la découverte des
Açores puis du Brésil en 1500. Sa méthode et ses cartes ont certainement donné
une avance déterminante au Portugal et ont </span><span style="text-align: justify;"> </span><span style="text-align: justify;">en particulier permis la découverte par
Magellan, un peu plus tard, du détroit qui porte son nom entre l’Atlantique et
le Pacifique.</span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAf-LIVhLZiroRfSK69zpu5KxP_eYm9YnvF7YOnhfR4q5IltMbS-cW8Q_fFISiiqzrxGWSZR9KJZzHNyuEIw3qWUB4FRXwiCW9VWJtjXSCqlc98arY0NF6CFDTYtqpZMwuEAcWuo4xZmc/s1600/P+34.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="203" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAf-LIVhLZiroRfSK69zpu5KxP_eYm9YnvF7YOnhfR4q5IltMbS-cW8Q_fFISiiqzrxGWSZR9KJZzHNyuEIw3qWUB4FRXwiCW9VWJtjXSCqlc98arY0NF6CFDTYtqpZMwuEAcWuo4xZmc/s400/P+34.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Le tombeau de Vasco de Gama</div>
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Un portrait de Magellan</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiER1FQDvYmOwRIewwW5qTR4oAts8NcJeea7_Qxz961WPysYZqw9O3S3VwWF2Zb1QHeFqdluuth861nwtbaaOCrdbFHkJGWrESQZjpIIULbRuJAt9l570tXYTndMuQXGpJv-RwIty3RYhw/s1600/P+37.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="333" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiER1FQDvYmOwRIewwW5qTR4oAts8NcJeea7_Qxz961WPysYZqw9O3S3VwWF2Zb1QHeFqdluuth861nwtbaaOCrdbFHkJGWrESQZjpIIULbRuJAt9l570tXYTndMuQXGpJv-RwIty3RYhw/s400/P+37.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
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Nous avons visité une exposition consacrée à Henri le
Navigateur, qui se tenait dans le sanctuaire et la chapelle de Nossa Senhora de
Guadalupe, où, depuis le 13<sup>ème</sup> siècle, les marins venaient en
pèlerinage pour être protégés par Dieu avant de prendre la mer !</div>
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Curieusement, les portugais qui ont monté cette exposition
ont donné presque davantage d’importance aux guerres de conquêtes qu’Henri le
Navigateur a menées en Afrique du Nord qu’aux
découvertes qu’il a suscitées à partir de ses cartes marines…</div>
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Après petit restau de poisson et soirée Fado…Danièle a repris son avion. Notre projet était
d’aller à Madère. Mais nous y renonçons du fait de vents contraires, et, le 14
octobre nous mettons le cap sur le sud du Portugal, l’Algarve.</div>
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Nous faisons escale à Alvor, un mouillage
« parfait », auquel on accède en zigzagant entre les bans de sables.
Nous laissons à nouveau passer un coup de vent, le 9 ème depuis notre
départ ; c’est beaucoup pour un été. Mais nous avons pu nous mettre à
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Nous sommes allés par la terre voir le Cap Saint Vincent, la pointe sud-ouest de la péninsule, qui a vu partir les grands navigateurs.<br />
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Puis, le 25 octobre, nous avons mis le cap sur les Canaries…<br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-9563164791982400542015-10-13T14:32:00.001-07:002015-10-14T00:44:11.124-07:00Espagne septembre 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
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Déjà 1 mois depuis notre dernier message… Nous apprenons à
vivre plus lentement, c’est bien agréable et, peut-être salutaire…<br />
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Le Golfe de Gascogne s’est passé sans encombres, avec un
vent variable, de soutenu, au calme plat.<br />
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Nous avons vu bien sûr des dauphins, et quand même une
baleine, à la remontée des fonds vers le plateau continental au nord de l’Espagne ;
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Un joli petit oiseau vert est venu se reposer une journée
sur le bateau, voire dans le bateau ! Nous l’avons quand même mis dehors
quand il a commencé à faire ses besoins sur une couchette. En mer, les animaux
sont moins farouches.</div>
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Le vent passant à l’ouest, nous avons fait relâche dans le
port de Gijon, car le Cap Finistère sait se faire respecter, un peu comme la pointe
du Raz chez nous, ou Mizen Head en Irlande. On n’y va pas par n’importe quel
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Les villes du nord de
l’Espagne, à l’est du Cap Finistère, ne sont pas très touristiques ; mais
elles dégagent un certain savoir-vivre.<br />
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Nous sommes arrivés pour la fête locale de la vieille ville
de Gijon. Groupe de percussion dans les rues, chanteur et bal populaire sur la
place, concert public, tout le monde était de sortie et l’ambiance était
conviviale et bon-enfant. Nous n’avons pas de photos, mais nous avons dansé sur
la place au milieu des autochtones, avec un parapluie dans la poche !</div>
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En revanche, l’Espagne ne brille pas par les plans
d’urbanisme. Chacun construit à son goût, souvent où il veut, et l’ensemble
donne un patchwork de couleurs et de formes pas toujours très harmonieux.</div>
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Nous avons également assisté à un festival du rire.
Costumes… </div>
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Jeux vidéo qui, comme partout, absorbent les jeunes…</div>
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Là, nous avons laissé passer la tempête tropicale «
Henri » qui est venue finir sa carrière à travers l’Europe. Bien abrités
derrière la digue énorme, les amarres doublées, nous avons eu des rafales de 45
nœuds de vent. La Capitainerie a enregistré davantage.</div>
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Nous en avons profité pour visiter un peu la région, les
Asturies. Les spécialités sont le lait et le cidre. Nous n’étions presque pas
dépaysés !</div>
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A l’est de Gijon, de beaux paysages, de jolis estuaires.</div>
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">A
l’ouest, une industrie lourde avec des mines de charbon désaffectées et une
sidérurgie en action.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;"><br /></span>
<span style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: FR; mso-ascii-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: minor-latin;">Nous
sommes allés visiter, au sud, la capitale de la province, Oviedo. La ville
médiévale est bien conservée et mérite la visite…</span><br />
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outre, on sait où est passé l’or des Aztèques !</span><br />
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Nous sommes repartis avec une veine de vent d’Est. Mais nous
avons quand même subi les caprices de cette région avec une accélération subite
du vent repassé au sud-ouest au Cap Ortegal. En une minute, le vent est passé
de 10 à 25 nœuds ; il faut se dépêcher de prendre directement le 2<sup>ème</sup>
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Nous avons eu des nuits magnifiques en mer, et nous avons le
temps de les contempler. J’imagine que, en voyant, comme nous, le croissant de
lune se lever, éclairé du côté où le soleil se couche, en voyant le ciel
tourner autour de l’étoile polaire au cours de la nuit, en voyant l’étoile
polaire baisser sur l’horizon au fur et à mesure que l’on descend vers le sud,
comme de jour, en voyant la côte ou les bateaux disparaître du bas vers le haut
à l’horizon, on imagine que nombre d’anciens, dans les siècles et millénaires
précédents, ont eu l’intuition que les astres étaient des boules, qu’elles
tournent les unes autour des autres, et que les terre est un astre… Mais il y a
des époques où il ne fallait pas le dire !</div>
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Nous avons passé le Cap Finistère de nuit, par beau temps,
le 21 septembre, pour fêter l’automne ! Il faut dire que le Cap Finistère
joue un peut le même rôle que la Loire, il fait barrière entre les systèmes
météo. Il peut faire 35 nœuds de vent au Nord du cap, et beau temps sur la
côte, dès le cap passé. </div>
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Nous avons du slalomer, toujours de nuit, entre les bateaux
de pêche qui, maintenant, travaillent à 2, en tirant un énorme chalut entre les
bateaux. Ils mettent un girophare dans la nuit, et ne dévient pas de leur route…
même si nous avons priorité.</div>
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Mais les pêcheurs espagnols sont parfois très accueillants, comme les irlandais. Un chalutier qui nous inquiétait parce qu’il semblait foncer sur nous est passé juste derrière et le pêcheur nous a fait de grands signes en criant : « Have a nice day ! ».</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJoVmBY83Svf0A7TxVpihoTmljGs8IoSZ9-glVYGqB2HMjZwJUWpC7Dms7j-QwECoOdnCLSqzU1L7wAHIwTLbZfvrV7tiRFWvAFXZZFUm3kP4C1_w1KdVCaQtQCNre6ZvLFgYepn1TjFc/s1600/E+43.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="276" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJoVmBY83Svf0A7TxVpihoTmljGs8IoSZ9-glVYGqB2HMjZwJUWpC7Dms7j-QwECoOdnCLSqzU1L7wAHIwTLbZfvrV7tiRFWvAFXZZFUm3kP4C1_w1KdVCaQtQCNre6ZvLFgYepn1TjFc/s320/E+43.jpg" width="320" /></a> La pêche, sous toutes ses formes, est une affaire sérieuse.<br />
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Ici, ce n'est pas une ferme d'élevage, mais des poissons en liberté.<br />
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Nous en avons apprécié les produits en mangeant de délicieux plats de calamares
et de chiripones (des minis calamars) pour un prix très sympa. </div>
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Au restaurant,
nous étions content d’avoir la télé pour regarder les résultats des élections de Catalogne. Cela nous semble une bonne chose de ne pas aller vers la scission
des états existants; la priorité nous semble plutôt à la construction des
Etats Unis d’Europe ou encore de l’Europe fédérale.</div>
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Ce n’est pas la seule similitude avec l’Irlande : la
brumasse est aussi quelque chose de partagé.<br />
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Il faut toutefois reconnaître que la température n’est pas
la même. Nous faisons tout à l’envers de la France. Nous avons eu froid en
Irlande pendant la canicule et, maintenant, en automne, il fait une température
agréable même les jours de temps maussade.</div>
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Nous avons fait relâche au mouillage au fond de la Ria de
Pontevedra, devant Combarro. </div>
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Combarro est un village ancien, avec des ruelles
étroites entre des maisons de granit. </div>
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Ce qui le caractérise, ce sont ces « Horreos »,
construction en forme de cahutes sur pilotis, en granit, posées sur de courtes
colonnes, et ornées le plus souvent d’une croix. De loin, on dirait des
catafalques alignés le long de la côte. </div>
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Mais il n’en est rien.</div>
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Ce sont des
greniers pour faire sècher et conserver les céréales, à l’abri du mauvais temps
et des rongeurs. Ce qui est curieux, à nos yeux, c’est que ces constructions
sont en premier rang de bord de mer, cachant le plus souvent un paysage bien
joli aux yeux des habitants. Nous n’avons pas d’explication.</div>
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Le dimanche, sur la place un groupe d’adulte et un groupe
d’enfants présentaient une démonstration de danses brésiliennes.</div>
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Puis nous sommes repartis vers le Portugal, pour visiter Lisbonne.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-47039133214605296682015-09-06T12:45:00.001-07:002015-09-06T12:45:26.566-07:00Août 2015 en Bretagne<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Le retour d’Irlande s’est déroulé confortablement - une fois
n’est pas coutume – dans une fenêtre météo de vent de Sud-Ouest force 3 à 4 </div>
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nous sommes arrivés juste avant la reprise des hostilités
du ciel, à Camaret, avec sa tour Vauban, édifiée pour défendre le goulet de
Brest contre les anglais et les espagnols</div>
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Nous avons dû
patienter à Douarnenez, puis </div>
Morgat pour attendre la fin d’une forte houle
contre le courant dans le Raz de Sein et,<br />
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pour nous, le Raz a finalement été
clément.</div>
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L’arrivée aux Glénans, en revanche a été un peu rock and roll, avec
louvoyage au milieu d’une course d’une cinquantaine de voiliers, contre le
courant, avec un vent de 20 à 30 nœuds, 17 virements de bords !<br />
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Au mouillage, aux Glénans, nous avons pu admirer les kyte surfs,
avec d’autant plus d’attention que, </div>
comme cela ne se voit pas, Gildas est l’un
de ceux qui filent entre l’eau et le ciel, sous leur cerf-volant.<br />
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Puis Christian nous a quittés et Gildas et Claire nous ont
rejoints sur Sésame pour 3 jours. </div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Marc et Colette nous ont rejoints également et nous avons navigué à 6.</span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">Qui a dit qu'un trimaran n'était pas habitable ?</span></div>
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Nous sommes entrés dans le golfe du Morbihan, où le courant
peut atteindre 8 nœuds en vives eaux dans le goulet d’entrée et entre l’île
Berder et l’île de la Jument.</div>
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Les manœuvres pour prendre un coffre de mouillage étaient
bien coordonnées ! </div>
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Le courant peut tirer la ligne de pêche<br />
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Je sais que c’est pas vrai, mais, j’ai dix ans …</div>
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A l’île de Houat,
Gildas a plongé en apnée et rapporté un tourteau et une araignée, tandis que
Jean-Luc a sagement cueilli un seau de moules sur les rochers, qu’il a fallu
gratter !<br />
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L’eau douce est précieuse dans les îles, mais les bretons ne
manquent pas d’humour…<br />
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A l’entrée du Golfe,
l’île de Gavrinis est célèbre par son remarquable cairn, qui a survécu jusqu’à
nos jours.<br />
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Il s’agit très certainement d’une chambre funéraire qui date
d’environ 6000 ans, construite en blocs de granit. Toutes les parois de la
chambre sont gravées de motifs non figuratifs. Le toit est un bloc de granit
estimé à plus de 200 tonnes et l’on ne sait pas comment il a été monté sur les
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Pourtant, quelques êtres préhistoriques étaient en train de
terminer l’édification…</div>
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L’équipage est allé visiter le Cairn de Gavrinis.<br />
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Puis nous sommes repartis à 2 à Etel, rendre visite au
nouveau propriétaire de notre ancien bateau, Embruns d’avoine. Emotion en
apercevant le bateau que nous avons
construit de nos mains avec les amis et sur lequel nous avons navigué 25 ans.<br />
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Il a maintenant un jeune capitaine, Samuel.<br />
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La Bretagne a fait concurrence à l’Irlande avec des
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une sterne posée sur le bateau,</div>
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Des maisons fleuries,</div>
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des paysages de rêve,<br />
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des ciels incertains,<br />
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de jolis bateaux,<br />
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des couchers de soleils, sur l’île d’Ars<br />
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des éclairages enigmatiques sur l’île de Houat</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-4512111390268454432015-08-03T14:08:00.001-07:002015-08-03T14:08:52.789-07:00L'Irlande en été, juillet 2015<div class="MsoNormal">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3Zl_gxrMhKKdAY3ce3nEkpF9OBDEWXt4ZhyCRiGjF9QwnbJYLZ8S_K2mZrK4S61Ojq2NjCTlZpMJTjdETi_DI1hRmvEMZ7yrg-cVmQ86SC0aimshOGFa904bpLdZcmtnq-C48jJ4tPs/s1600/1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS3Zl_gxrMhKKdAY3ce3nEkpF9OBDEWXt4ZhyCRiGjF9QwnbJYLZ8S_K2mZrK4S61Ojq2NjCTlZpMJTjdETi_DI1hRmvEMZ7yrg-cVmQ86SC0aimshOGFa904bpLdZcmtnq-C48jJ4tPs/s320/1.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
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L’Irlande est un bien beau pays.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;">Dominique nous a rejoints pour e</span>xplorer<br />
ses jolis recoins<br />
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Reste que son climat est difficile. Des dépressions plus ou
moins creuses sont passées sur l’Irlande quasi quotidiennement tout au long du
mois de juillet. Force 6, force 7, force 8, force 9…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy1-UKFSfGZ5gjOGAxwAt15u2xbsRRQUYpvEKbHkMgQFBNgdJy6eKu0RFaUUNAx_DVsCAsk0Nf7fCeLC-JAIu5qc2628VTN-GmjiiXlgRO8-EP3j2F__qm6tMxkFkR_gkK0xr7JIGeAu0/s1600/21.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy1-UKFSfGZ5gjOGAxwAt15u2xbsRRQUYpvEKbHkMgQFBNgdJy6eKu0RFaUUNAx_DVsCAsk0Nf7fCeLC-JAIu5qc2628VTN-GmjiiXlgRO8-EP3j2F__qm6tMxkFkR_gkK0xr7JIGeAu0/s320/21.JPG" width="288" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTF9z0FCSGXxsqmK9pOougPKwk2uH_XjY1bAvm1NBfOQd0sci_0tmwYcYEV0DqzovhLzh1qPIyNk3Fgc_UNmwB2Xk2JiPSmgE8r9pTOkzXnTP3zQX0IoyMiOXVi5xYJJGVK5Ej51z9cw/s1600/22.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiTF9z0FCSGXxsqmK9pOougPKwk2uH_XjY1bAvm1NBfOQd0sci_0tmwYcYEV0DqzovhLzh1qPIyNk3Fgc_UNmwB2Xk2JiPSmgE8r9pTOkzXnTP3zQX0IoyMiOXVi5xYJJGVK5Ej51z9cw/s320/22.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="text-align: center;"> jamais plus de 2 jours d’affilée de temps agréable. </span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5BaF602Y9tci2MT78RZqouzyC6A_DPjJTvjQGeMj1BkhEV45JqpQVb1vn0I3GgU1xZT8DIDoLw3FiVNKz0bgi6fka4XZ7Edk74debwfAXm_YvP2fVDFwSJ03HBr2RK1M3RrrxDM0KZVE/s1600/23.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="291" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5BaF602Y9tci2MT78RZqouzyC6A_DPjJTvjQGeMj1BkhEV45JqpQVb1vn0I3GgU1xZT8DIDoLw3FiVNKz0bgi6fka4XZ7Edk74debwfAXm_YvP2fVDFwSJ03HBr2RK1M3RrrxDM0KZVE/s320/23.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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La canicule, qu’y disaient…</div>
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Heureusement que la côte est truffée de ports naturels et de mouillages parfaitement abrités, qui sont de plus pleins de charme.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBl2TShdmuzYLHCGyLordaFrV1r3fJ9zikzfu04Zf_mY4FfSg7hbCjOtZrZzSTbG9D1KbwsMMIsnx4CgvLuiAZXgLJM4pFC6EERvs_euNvQjjQIknlx6cqxtBbizi-iFdc3iyPpKRq30/s1600/25.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBl2TShdmuzYLHCGyLordaFrV1r3fJ9zikzfu04Zf_mY4FfSg7hbCjOtZrZzSTbG9D1KbwsMMIsnx4CgvLuiAZXgLJM4pFC6EERvs_euNvQjjQIknlx6cqxtBbizi-iFdc3iyPpKRq30/s320/25.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Cork est très fière de son Yacht Club, qui date de 1720, "le plus ancien du monde". La bière irlandaise y est savoureuse, dans un cadre
cossu. Il faut goûter la Smithwicks, mais surtout ne pas prononcer le
« th » des anglais, ni le « w », et adoucir le T, ce qui
donne à peu près « Smidicks »</div>
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Le Drake’s Pool, dans la rivière de Crosshaven a permis au corsaire Drake de se protéger, en plus du mauvais temps, des Espagnols qui le poursuivaient…</div>
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Aujourd’hui, en plus de nombreux bateaux, il abrite un héron…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOENdwMz89CmQXE1HC68KK7B-QROWlOPaxPAMOa29tpRC8kX319GKz3GqAJdKrD354SKeOIBmvD1XZMyd0C-PKwG4de_Eqi9FOvuVx9zSmf79CnxuuzqwPCaXfRkWH9mY3umPHUj71_Jk/s1600/28.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOENdwMz89CmQXE1HC68KK7B-QROWlOPaxPAMOa29tpRC8kX319GKz3GqAJdKrD354SKeOIBmvD1XZMyd0C-PKwG4de_Eqi9FOvuVx9zSmf79CnxuuzqwPCaXfRkWH9mY3umPHUj71_Jk/s320/28.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNfvpc43UcKB1AaUZ763kWuMZ9RUEGmV08O9EzjpQajqzsfxfG_2y1mSaqJxUcfU8mlmyAJ87E7vLDYMr5q38xVQRPNBDLmeFGApbq-cGW2fY0s1AXzu5QahfnHRk9BaC6SdDPNMA1KrI/s1600/29.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNfvpc43UcKB1AaUZ763kWuMZ9RUEGmV08O9EzjpQajqzsfxfG_2y1mSaqJxUcfU8mlmyAJ87E7vLDYMr5q38xVQRPNBDLmeFGApbq-cGW2fY0s1AXzu5QahfnHRk9BaC6SdDPNMA1KrI/s320/29.JPG" width="320" /></a><span style="text-align: center;"> Kinsale est colorée,</span><br />
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les pubs sont très conviviaux.<br />
Le public participe, chante et rit, tous âges mélangés.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aS1l1rcpGdfdu5no_fOZ_NG-xXR2A8y1IA5JmsQnYrRUrImVwizufY-nOg1QVEdSyx4d9G9JM3agiltHcNuZ-_b0dNpSLEvOgy5kORbDUwOj9C_Fbi4SkT1b6s5T7Vq59utxxiJIA1w/s1600/30.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6aS1l1rcpGdfdu5no_fOZ_NG-xXR2A8y1IA5JmsQnYrRUrImVwizufY-nOg1QVEdSyx4d9G9JM3agiltHcNuZ-_b0dNpSLEvOgy5kORbDUwOj9C_Fbi4SkT1b6s5T7Vq59utxxiJIA1w/s320/30.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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La Guiness est reine.<br />
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L’Ecole de Voile est particulièrement dynamique et beaucoup de jeunes sont sur des dériveurs.</div>
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Crookhaven est un abri parfait, pour tous les temps.<br />
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Le petit bateau rouge qui s’en va, c’est Andy Lane, très sympathique participant du Jester Trophy.</div>
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Les Irlandais semblent cool et sont très accueillants. Le père du patron du O’Sullivans Bar a sorti sa voiture pour nous conduire visiter Mizen Head. Et, le lendemain, au retour de pêche, il nous a déposé 3 maquereaux, en disant : « cadeau ! ». Il s’est excusé de ne pas avoir de crabe car la mer était trop mauvaise pour relever les casiers et est reparti avant que nous ayons eu le temps de réagir.</div>
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MizenHead est la
« Pointe du Raz » irlandaise. Le paysage est impressionnant. </div>
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Elle est située face au célèbre phare du Fastnet, sur son
rocher, qui sert de marque de course. Si les coureurs savaient le charme des
paysages, des petits ports et des mouillages alentour et des pubs, certains
renonceraient à leur course !</div>
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Il y a aussi de belles journées, ponctuées de belles rencontres, avec les mouettes, les dauphins, les fous de Bassan</div>
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Nous avons tourné Mizen Head par la mer, mais à bonne distance pour s’écarter du courant et des vagues courtes et creuses qu’il entraine, et nous sommes entrés dans la Baie de Bantry.</div>
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Là, au mouillage de l’île de Bear, appelée aussi Bere, nous nous sommes aperçus que l’hélice avait perdu une de ses trois pales : inutilisable !</div>
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Petit louvoyage dans le chenal de l’île pour rejoindre le port de Castletownbere. Heureusement que notre Sésame sait remonter au vent. Mouillage à la voile dans le port, puis échouage pour réparation.</div>
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Castletownbere est un grand port de pêche. Des grands chalutiers de diverses nationalités viennent décharger à la criée qui expédie les produits de la mer dans le monde entier. Est-ce bien raisonnable du point de vue de l’énergie et de la ressource ?</div>
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Face aux chalutiers, même pas peur !<br />
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Et ce n’est pas rien d’aller sur Internet dans un port de pêche !<br />
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Reste que l’accueil et le savoir vivre sont bien agréables. Les chalutiers de toute taille respectent les limites de vitesse dès l’entrée du port pour ne pas faire de vagues ; les pêcheurs saluent les plaisanciers ; et la personne que vous voyez là prendre les amarres pour aider à accoster est le Capitaine du Port. Verrait-on ça ailleurs ?</div>
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Grâce à Internet et tél portable, une hélice nous est livrée
en 48 H du Danemark.</div>
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Christian nous a rejoints pour visiter la baie de Bantry. Au fond, le site de Glenfariff est idyllique, tant par les couleurs que par la végétation – on l’appelle « le jardin d’Eden de l’Irlande » et sur l’île d’Illnaculen appelée aussi Garinish, a été créé un jardin exotique.</div>
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Les phoques se prélassent sur les rochers. Les oiseaux sont nombreux, ici des guillemots, sans compter les moules à volonté. Cultivées dans la baie, elles essaiment sur tous les rochers.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiur7LJ0HmLVuiLLef_E2JYzpskTBOC2V5ANTaYj0Ik5VgVjdie9sYDil3xpnqSHUGyjUTLQpj5gAkGeMv18rtNZrpver-2aAnK-a8JbyhLyXmTkUMH1zw2EYo2Iq1fJ4lIYUXGnBR4jpg/s1600/64.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="286" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiur7LJ0HmLVuiLLef_E2JYzpskTBOC2V5ANTaYj0Ik5VgVjdie9sYDil3xpnqSHUGyjUTLQpj5gAkGeMv18rtNZrpver-2aAnK-a8JbyhLyXmTkUMH1zw2EYo2Iq1fJ4lIYUXGnBR4jpg/s320/64.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Devant la perspective des dépressions creuses qui arrivent et du mauvais temps prévu pour 5 jours, nous repartons vers la Bretagne le jeudi 30 juillet.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99b_8cehyphenhyphen3IISQrkULTRYWoPcnEX1ZG03TjCnbhR8p1lNZk3DJ8wmBuLZgsWaQwKRfjdXgQluM55BPIOaFp2uy3Ssv77yo1RR_AGoMsPzbF1ZXQJJRFqu9Fh4aMr3_Q-KIRd1urepRf8/s1600/65.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="303" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh99b_8cehyphenhyphen3IISQrkULTRYWoPcnEX1ZG03TjCnbhR8p1lNZk3DJ8wmBuLZgsWaQwKRfjdXgQluM55BPIOaFp2uy3Ssv77yo1RR_AGoMsPzbF1ZXQJJRFqu9Fh4aMr3_Q-KIRd1urepRf8/s320/65.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Et tant qu’à faire d’être un vieux loup de mer, autant en
avoir l’air !</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-84634640109254787942015-07-06T09:18:00.000-07:002015-07-06T09:18:28.528-07:00Premières étapes<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Des copains sont venus nous dire au revoir sur le port de
Courseulles. Un pot chaleureux et bien sympathique.</div>
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Puis nous avons largué les amarres dimanche 28 juin à 17 H
30. Il s’agissait de ne pas rater la veine de vent d’est ! </div>
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Par vent très faible, 1 à 5 nœuds de vent de secteur
Est, mais quand même 4 ou 5 heures à 10 n de vent et 3 heures de moteur pour ne
pas rater le Raz Blanchard, nous avons mis 47 H pour rejoindre Saint-Malo. En
24 H, 57 miles ! </div>
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La dernière fois que j’avais fait ce trajet avec Sésame,
j’avais mis 23 H. Mais ce bateau avance
quand même un peu lorsqu’il n’y a presque pas de vent.</div>
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Nicole au soleil de la Manche, not a terrorist !<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja9FAV5BJLsguV8_NZRWYozqCjt0-P0cObXgIkyBjpywTIz1Ue-vOUCMXzzKdZ28-C2ZT2Ype5h-014hFqTQgTrr7AXOCTly939QXsys0kOgnwwMEIWtc5BMHNyfL05jSwjYBuFdZje44/s1600/St+Malo.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="158" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja9FAV5BJLsguV8_NZRWYozqCjt0-P0cObXgIkyBjpywTIz1Ue-vOUCMXzzKdZ28-C2ZT2Ype5h-014hFqTQgTrr7AXOCTly939QXsys0kOgnwwMEIWtc5BMHNyfL05jSwjYBuFdZje44/s320/St+Malo.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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La première étape nous a menés à Saint-Malo, ou nous avions encore des problèmes électroniques à régler.</div>
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Là, nous en avons profité pour caréner car il y avait des
algues sur les coques. L’aire de carénage de Saint-Malo est très bien aménagée,
avec plan incliné d’échouage, karcher à disposition et récupération des eaux
usées. Malheureusement le système de récupération était bouché, comme c’est
semble-t(il souvent le cas et les eaux polluées partent dans le port et sur le
plan d’eau aménagé pour les planches à voile ! Le seul avantage de cette
situation est qu’en « fonctionnement forcé », on ne paie pas la
location du Karcher…</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFBYMzsJEARdNSFi9ahOZ-FfnwLJjBT4XNi5rJCEsGK95WMirL9_l_KzGyi3ZxQ14Wa7jwjgCmiw7uxBD_4xuZcklgGMVBtZTzSl1ckG4EpfSDxY_V0J84W1dXNZ03ykIKkD1qczikZc/s1600/Grand+Jardin.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGFBYMzsJEARdNSFi9ahOZ-FfnwLJjBT4XNi5rJCEsGK95WMirL9_l_KzGyi3ZxQ14Wa7jwjgCmiw7uxBD_4xuZcklgGMVBtZTzSl1ckG4EpfSDxY_V0J84W1dXNZ03ykIKkD1qczikZc/s320/Grand+Jardin.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nouvelle veine de vent d’Est à ne pas rater le vendredi 3
juillet. Départ à 6 H pour l'Irlande ; petit vent qui se renforce peu à peu jusqu’à force
5. Cette fois-ci, nous parcourons 175 miles en 24 H pour aboutir à Land’s End,
Pointe de l’Angleterre. Ce n’est pas un record, mais c’est pas mal ! Nous
passons à petite distance du Cap Lizard, lieu d’enregistrement des records de l’Atlantique,
mais il se fiche pas mal du fait que nous ayions coupé la ligne. </div>
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Le vent ayant
tourné au Sud-Ouest, nous décidons d’aborder la Mer Celtique pour aller directement en Irlande, vent de
travers. Le vent forcit à un bon force 6, avec des rafales à 34 nœuds, et la
mer d’Irlande ressemble plutôt à un champ de patates. </div>
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Nous sommes copieusement
secoués. Arrivés à Cork au matin du 5 juillet, après avoir freiné en mettant à
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Environ le même temps de trajet pour aller de Courseulles à
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Cork, un des plus grands ports naturels du monde, qui a vu
le départ du Titanic et celui du Lusitania pour leur dernier voyage. </div>
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Des bras
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Mais, le climat irlandais donne parfois encore envie de mettre le cap au Sud. </div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-84839623945065711382015-07-06T04:35:00.003-07:002015-07-06T04:35:30.818-07:00Qui sommes-nous ?<div class="MsoNormal">
<b>L’équipage</b></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"> Nicole</span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;">et Jean-Luc </span></div>
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<span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><span style="text-align: center;"> </span><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAgFl2BvHTUugumd5krVUttJQoIAJf_ITLMYbnalRsnCg5lDNmlEBhTMCBGazmIAeyIQbNRXweDWeyoidoeAVyKWBgF5rlfo6LUZp5Tv1e3c-8WUSwTZh18rY4yhElnlK6knjuL8BTx4/s1600/JL+600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwAgFl2BvHTUugumd5krVUttJQoIAJf_ITLMYbnalRsnCg5lDNmlEBhTMCBGazmIAeyIQbNRXweDWeyoidoeAVyKWBgF5rlfo6LUZp5Tv1e3c-8WUSwTZh18rY4yhElnlK6knjuL8BTx4/s320/JL+600px.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
</div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
Après 40 ans de vie bien rapide, nous avons décidé d’aller doucement et de commencer par prendre toutes les vacances dont nous avons rêvé en courant un peu trop. </div>
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Nicole, Médecin Généraliste installée 30 ans à Caen, Jean-Luc, Médecin de Santé Publique, ancien Conseiller Economique et Social Régional de Basse-Normandie, ancien Conseiller Municipal de Caen, tous deux à la retraite de puis peu.<br />
Nous avons aussi élevé 2 enfants, bien sympa et aujourd'hui adultes, milité pas mal et construit un bateau...</div>
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<br /></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAWTD0Iijn-5nD9MIwjB4jb-ZKto2Ws2cha2KYvrFJnzR5q38xoYkVpnP8vgBoprWv6d09dd8kFvkaWSjzp08ICQj9qcTGZs_DDuttU2yUt6FksSzICYBAx6C3fy8S9wVhi1CRztm5w8/s1600/Embruns+d%2527avoine+1+redimens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em; text-align: justify;"><img border="0" height="290" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfAWTD0Iijn-5nD9MIwjB4jb-ZKto2Ws2cha2KYvrFJnzR5q38xoYkVpnP8vgBoprWv6d09dd8kFvkaWSjzp08ICQj9qcTGZs_DDuttU2yUt6FksSzICYBAx6C3fy8S9wVhi1CRztm5w8/s320/Embruns+d%2527avoine+1+redimens.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Car, avant de passer au trimaran, nous avions construit de nos mains, avec les amis, un voilier de 11,40 m appelé Embruns d'avoine. Nous avons navigué avec lui 23 ans, de la Normandie à l'Espagne, aux Açores, à l'Ecosse, à la Corse, la Sardaigne, aux Baléares, à Venise, et jusqu'à la Guadeloupe en 1999. </div>
<br />
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C'est un dériveur lesté dessiné par Jean-Luc, gréé en côtre, doté de 2 dérives et d'un régulateur d'allure qui lui donnent une stabilité de route exceptionnelle, ce qui est un peu magique en croisière. On a la liberté de ses mouvements et de ses occupations quand le bateau se gouverne seul aidé simplement par le vent. </div>
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Bref, nous l'avons beaucoup aimé, mais l'attrait du trimaran a été le plus fort pour le nouveau voyage !<br />
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<br /></div>
</div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-50555491336953032342015-06-13T05:05:00.001-07:002015-06-17T04:59:15.362-07:00Fin mai, galop d'essai<div style="text-align: justify;">
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8n-n4qsWF4Qgs9KTOoCNC5w6OPRj5n43HHaj2wpX6pw3jLULGYjP9G9rp7YnlB7hbKJAeyFAK6235zzgO3c_V99xcIZYFWw8Dcor_c7dsVXoRy7W5ccQYV19_IgMdNHai3MH-GNFwDXs/s1600/sesame+%25C3%25A0+Tatihou+600px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8n-n4qsWF4Qgs9KTOoCNC5w6OPRj5n43HHaj2wpX6pw3jLULGYjP9G9rp7YnlB7hbKJAeyFAK6235zzgO3c_V99xcIZYFWw8Dcor_c7dsVXoRy7W5ccQYV19_IgMdNHai3MH-GNFwDXs/s320/sesame+%25C3%25A0+Tatihou+600px.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Nous avons fait au mois de mai un galop d’essai, avec une
petite croisière pèlerinage sur les traces de notre jeunesse. Bien sûr Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue
et l’île de Tatihou. Puis le Raz de Barfleur avec
plus de 30 nœuds de vent apparent de Nord-Ouest et une bonne secouette – le
bateau s’est bien comporté.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqanHlSbSuJ1e_D98gievOyUNtpb8RcuGCknlF9ERx5SiG3wrV-xBhQfKz2dPTzSWEw0q7ZZk2O0g6cIO2-5OKnKKO9L7MDi8K5SpyfotoBs2ZG0M6F07rlSNfmdQjvJtMG9xH1YTb5U/s1600/Paquebot+Cherbourg+550px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhNqanHlSbSuJ1e_D98gievOyUNtpb8RcuGCknlF9ERx5SiG3wrV-xBhQfKz2dPTzSWEw0q7ZZk2O0g6cIO2-5OKnKKO9L7MDi8K5SpyfotoBs2ZG0M6F07rlSNfmdQjvJtMG9xH1YTb5U/s320/Paquebot+Cherbourg+550px.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Puis Cherbourg !<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLF8FDdZbAIbXtegSTj0qjC7ovH5Hcs0VLvIhP16zxjje6oAVz58KeaPF2vPdgwZd7q5BMI05RBFnLuplz_yjDl8dUXUvC55u9bv4qDczBpOxK7EHVt1tbDkOWRyCLLusy-PYgSxka1o/s1600/Derrible+Bay+mai+2015+500px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLLF8FDdZbAIbXtegSTj0qjC7ovH5Hcs0VLvIhP16zxjje6oAVz58KeaPF2vPdgwZd7q5BMI05RBFnLuplz_yjDl8dUXUvC55u9bv4qDczBpOxK7EHVt1tbDkOWRyCLLusy-PYgSxka1o/s320/Derrible+Bay+mai+2015+500px.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Puis l’île de Serk d’un charme exceptionnel,
à deux pas du Cotentin. Nous avons mouillé dans Terrible Bay, aux falaises
impressionnantes, à moitié voilées par la brume, sous un clair de lune qui leur
donne une allure féérique !<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufPplRG3M6xGhPZVRsLxu4nUWqA5UcnTEe3bsDOULcQew0KhGJhCkyhuoVivdS0VlKIEeVZgwo5Q4rTbx449OX5uRvN4RYTQJyGixO1fp354N9ZhywaORPZtRmv81jSfXwCuGDR23NxY/s1600/Serk+500px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjufPplRG3M6xGhPZVRsLxu4nUWqA5UcnTEe3bsDOULcQew0KhGJhCkyhuoVivdS0VlKIEeVZgwo5Q4rTbx449OX5uRvN4RYTQJyGixO1fp354N9ZhywaORPZtRmv81jSfXwCuGDR23NxY/s320/Serk+500px.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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Là, une ballade sur le versant Est, luxuriant
et plein de fleurs de printemps.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABT977GH4RX389SBI-KEBKa076SBQZ17kRHJd9FeH5tMNnY67O0ooC43A4eWV9asFvmoF2ZUh2_35onrgi8FkJ9ieCbNEcDiUROxiyVvZ9_SqrzO9UHvegA9YRW1uVNR2coPu5u243BY/s1600/Havre+Gosselin+500px.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgABT977GH4RX389SBI-KEBKa076SBQZ17kRHJd9FeH5tMNnY67O0ooC43A4eWV9asFvmoF2ZUh2_35onrgi8FkJ9ieCbNEcDiUROxiyVvZ9_SqrzO9UHvegA9YRW1uVNR2coPu5u243BY/s320/Havre+Gosselin+500px.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Et son versant ouest aride, qu’on atteint en 2
heures de marche, et le mouillage magnifique du Havre Gosselin.<br />
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2 jeunes croisés sur la plage et qui découvraient l’île et son charme,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>nous ont demandé si c’était la première fois
que nous venions. Nous avons dû calculer pour répondre que ça fait 43 ans que
nous sommes amoureux de l’île de Serk ! Nicole a beau me demander s’il
faut vraiment aller plus loin puisque nous avons de tels petits paradis près de
chez nous, je trouve quand même que l’eau est beaucoup trop froide…<br />
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Nous sommes ensuite revenus à Courseulles pour quelques
démarches, et nous sommes pour 15 jours chez Gildas pour participer au chantier
de sa maison de paille. Ensuite retour au bateau, fin des tracasseries
administratives, des courses, des problèmes d’équipement et d’informatique,
puis le départ pour le grand voyage. Voyage qui commencera en juillet par
l’Irlande, avant d’aller plus au Sud.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6613826797695413768.post-74968155729003050552015-05-30T07:51:00.000-07:002015-05-30T07:53:40.667-07:00PréparatifsLe départ est prévu début mai 2015. D'ici là beaucoup de préparatifs pour laisser la maison et bien des dossiers administratifs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xVDGF0J2INA99Fg6kqgKQnhjjm8OOlN0KgujMmZnkGZvcD5S_R4AQLy7Oaf-oVCbuWev5sfu7C7quNSUihfVApdpbhJo2tOMC8y1Q6yfXLkbJwm6_K3OxH8mPEPCPggTi7rFoYpetf0/s1600/Sesame.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xVDGF0J2INA99Fg6kqgKQnhjjm8OOlN0KgujMmZnkGZvcD5S_R4AQLy7Oaf-oVCbuWev5sfu7C7quNSUihfVApdpbhJo2tOMC8y1Q6yfXLkbJwm6_K3OxH8mPEPCPggTi7rFoYpetf0/s320/Sesame.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07233511007896009784noreply@blogger.com0